Meze: A Table of Small Plates
Meze are shared starters that can become the whole meal. In a meyhane they arrive with bread and often with rakı. The point is pace, not a single main.
A typical spread
Haydari and cacık are yogurt-based. Ezme is a hot pepper-tomato mash. Fava is mashed broad bean. Deniz börülcesi is samphire with lemon. Lakerda is salt-cured bonito. Midye tava or stuffed mussels appear on the coast. Olive oil vegetables (zeytinyağlı) are served cool.
Order a few cold plates first, then hot ones. Waiters may walk a tray; you point. It is normal to leave food; the culture is abundance, not cleaning every bowl. Pairing with rakı means water in the glass, never a rush.
Not tapas, not mezze only
The idea is Mediterranean and Near Eastern. Greek mezedes and Levantine mezze are cousins. Turkish meze leans on seasonal markets and the fish of the nearest sea. Inland tables tilt toward meat and herbs.
In short, meze is a tempo: many dishes, one conversation. The plates are the clock.